Artificial grass performs only as well as what lies beneath it. This guide walks you through infill selection, base preparation, drainage design and the finishing details that separate a durable installation from one that fails within a year. Whether you are converting a dust-bare yard, building a dog run that stays dry and odor-free, or preparing a patio or pool surround, the foundation and the materials matter more than the turf itself. Read this guide to understand what questions to ask, what to expect during installation, and what to demand in writing before work begins.
Stockton's heavy Delta clay soils, hot dry summers and winter tule fog create specific challenges: water that pools instead of draining, soil that compacts unevenly, and heat that stresses both turf and infill. This guide addresses those conditions and shows you how a local installation company approaches them differently from a crew that lays turf on bare dirt and leaves.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf surface to weigh it down, support the synthetic fibres, and help water drain through. The most common option is silica sand, a fine, angular mineral that acts as ballast and fills the space between the blade-like fibres. Silica sand is inexpensive and effective, but it compacts over time and can shift under heavy foot traffic or with aggressive power brooming. Coated sand improves on this: the grains are rounded and often colored or treated to reduce compaction, feel softer underfoot, and reflect less heat than bare silica. Both silica and coated sand are measured by particle size and density, and a good installer specifies the exact grade in writing.
Zeolite is a microporous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and other odors, making it popular for pet turf and dog runs. It is often blended with sand rather than used alone. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine sand with a polymer or mineral coating designed to inhibit bacterial growth and reduce surface temperature. These products cost more than plain sand but can make a meaningful difference in high-traffic pet areas or in full sun. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is a sports-field and gymnasium infill that offers cushioning and is rarely used in residential yards; it is heavier, retains more heat, and requires specialized disposal if the turf is ever removed. Ask your installer what infill they recommend for your use, why, and what the drainage and odor performance trade-offs are.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and this figure is one of the most important numbers in a turf installation. The infill does four jobs: it props up the synthetic fibres so they stand tall and look natural, it protects the turf backing from UV damage, it adds weight so the turf stays in place on slopes and in wind, and it helps water drain evenly across the surface instead of pooling. Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by low-cost installers. A turf that looks fine on day one will mat down within weeks if the infill is sparse, and the backing will begin to break down from sun exposure. A turf that is under-filled also tends to smell in pet areas because urine concentrates in the backing rather than draining through.
Typical infill rates range from 1.5 to 3 pounds per square foot for residential turf, depending on the pile height, fibre type, and intended use. Pet turfs and sports turfs often sit at the higher end. A written spec should always state the infill type, the target pounds per square foot, and the method of application (usually spread and power broomed into the turf). Ask for this figure in writing before installation begins, and if an installer cannot or will not give you a number, walk away. The infill amount is not negotiable without compromising performance.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path to good drainage starts with removal. If you have an existing lawn or old turf, it must be stripped away completely, including the root system. Dead grass, thatch and old turf backing trap moisture and create an unstable base for new work. Once the area is cleared, excavation depth depends on your soil and drainage. In Stockton's heavy clay and Delta soils, excavation is usually necessary to reach a level where water can actually move. The excavated area is then graded with a slight fall away from the house and away from any pool or structure, so water flows off rather than pooling. A weed barrier is often laid at this stage to prevent grass and roots from growing up through the turf, though on very wet sites the focus is drainage first and weed barrier second.
Next comes the base layer, typically three to four inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, spread and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. On top of the base, you may add a draining underlay or pad, especially for pet areas, playgrounds, pool surrounds or patios. This layer adds comfort and helps manage water movement. On concrete, balconies or hard surfaces, an underlay is essential because the concrete itself does not drain, and turf laid flat on a slab will trap water and fail. Finally, the turf is laid over the prepared base and secured with nails or staples. Each layer has a purpose, and skipping any of them is a shortcut that shows up as failure within a season.
Base Prep on Stockton Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Stockton soil is dominated by heavy clay and dark Delta silts that compact poorly and drain slowly. This is not sand or desert caliche; it is the opposite problem. Clay holds water like a bathtub, and when it compacts unevenly, it creates high and low spots. A dip in the base becomes a puddle in the turf, and puddles mean standing water, odor, algae and a shortened turf life. Proper base preparation in Stockton means excavating through the clay to a depth of three to four inches, removing roots and organic matter, and replacing it with a free-draining material such as decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This material is then spread in lifts (typically two-inch layers) and compacted firmly with a plate compactor after each lift. Compaction is not optional and not a light pass; it takes time and equipment.
The finished base should be level side to side and graded with a gentle fall away from the house and away from pools or patios so water runs off and does not pool. An uncompacted base will settle unevenly after the first heavy rain or after a few months of foot traffic, creating dips and soft spots. Those dips become puddles, puddles hold urine and debris, and the turf begins to smell and degrade. If a yard has a real drainage problem (a natural low point, a high water table, or clay that stays wet for weeks after rain), the base alone may not be enough. In those cases, drainage is addressed first with grading, French drains or other solutions, or the job is declined. A turf installation company that ignores a water problem is setting you up for failure.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf backing comes in two main types: perforated and fully permeable. Perforated backing has small holes punched through it at intervals, allowing water to drain but not at the rate of a fully open mesh. Fully permeable backing is an open weave or mesh that allows water to flow through almost unrestricted. Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF), and a higher number means faster drainage. Most residential turf drains at 15 to 30 GPH/SF, which is adequate for normal rainfall and pet use. Pet turfs and sports turfs are often specified at 30 GPH/SF or higher because they face heavier loads and need to shed water quickly. The drainage rate should be listed in the written spec so you know what you are getting.
However, a fast-draining turf still fails on a base that does not drain. Water has to move through the infill, through the backing, and then through the base. If the base is compacted clay with no outlet, water backs up and sits under the turf no matter how permeable the backing is. This is why base preparation matters more than backing choice. For hard surfaces such as concrete, patios and balconies, an underlay or pad is used to create a drainage gap between the turf and the slab. Without that gap, water pools on the concrete and the turf rots from underneath. Ask your installer what the turf's drainage rate is, what the base material is, and how water will exit the yard. If they cannot answer those questions clearly, they have not thought through drainage.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a real installation from a quick job show up at the seams and edges. Seams are joined with seam tape and adhesive, and the grain of the turf (the direction the fibres lie) must be aligned across the seam so the direction of the pile matches and the seam is invisible. A visible seam that shows a line or a change in pile direction is a sign the seam was not carefully made. Nails or staples that secure the turf are driven at the right spacing (typically every six to eight inches along the edge and at seams) and driven flush so they do not catch clothing or feet. If nails are loose or spaced too far apart, the turf will shift and seams will lift.
Edges are finished with bender board, metal edging or a similar perimeter that keeps the turf from creeping outward and the infill from spilling into planting beds or drains. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to pavers or the cool deck so water drains off and the edge does not trap debris. After all the seaming and edging is done, the turf is power broomed, a process that stands the fibres up, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the turf a finished, uniform look. A lifted seam, an obvious line where two pieces meet, or an uneven pile direction tells you the seaming was rushed. A loose edge or infill spilling into the yard tells you the perimeter was not secured. These finishing touches take time and skill, and they are worth checking before you sign off on the work.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any installation begins, demand a written specification that covers every material and method. The spec should name the turf product and fibre type (polyethylene, nylon, or a blend), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the target pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (usually three to four inches), the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier is included, the seam method and edge finishing, cleanup and haul-off of old turf or debris, and the workmanship warranty period. A one-to-three-year workmanship warranty on the installation itself is standard; manufacturer warranties on the turf are separate and are the turf maker's responsibility, not the installer's.
A written spec is your protection and your proof. It tells you exactly what you are paying for, it holds the installer accountable, and it gives you a reference if something goes wrong. If an installer will not put their plan in writing, do not hire them. For a free estimate and a detailed written spec for your yard, contact Stockton Turf Installation at (209) 320-5483. We measure on site, specify every material and method, and fully insure our work. See our pricing page for typical ranges, and remember that the cheapest estimate is rarely the best value when it comes to artificial grass.